How to Block Crochet: Wet, Spray and Steam Methods by Fiber

Blocking is shaping a finished piece by adding moisture or steam, pinning it to the right size, and letting it dry. As the fibers relax, stitches even out and the piece holds its new shape.

It can:

• Flatten curling edges and squares that won't lie flat
• Make all the squares of a blanket the same size before you join them
• Open up lace so the pattern shows
• Straighten wavy edges and slightly enlarge a piece

Blocking can't fix a stitch-count problem, and it won't make a dense fabric drapey. But for most projects, it's the difference between "homemade" and "handmade."

• A flat surface you can pin into. Interlocking foam blocking mats are ideal; a folded towel on a bed or carpet also works.
• Rust-proof pins. T-pins or stainless steel pins. Ordinary pins can rust and stain damp yarn.
• A spray bottle for spray blocking.
• A steam iron or handheld steamer for steam blocking.
• Blocking wires (optional) for long straight edges on shawls.
• A tape measure, so you block to the size you want.

Always check the yarn label first. It tells you whether the fiber can be washed, how hot the water can be, and whether it can be ironed.

Wet blocking gives the most dramatic results and suits most natural fibers.

1. 1.Soak the piece in cool or lukewarm water, with a little wool wash if you like, for 15 to 30 minutes until fully saturated.
2. 2.Squeeze gently. Don't wring or twist; that can stretch and felt wool.
3. 3.Roll it in a towel and press to remove more water. It should be damp, not dripping.
4. 4.Lay it flat on your mat and ease it into shape with your hands.
5. 5.Pin it to the measurements you want, starting with corners and the centers of edges, then filling in between. For lace, pin each point.
6. 6.Let it dry completely before unpinning. That can take a day or more.

Spray blocking is the gentlest method, good for delicate pieces, cotton, blends, and anything you don't want to soak.

1. 1.Pin the dry piece to your mat at the size you want.
2. 2.Mist it with water until it's evenly damp right through.
3. 3.Let it dry completely before unpinning.

It's also handy for quickly squaring up a stack of granny squares before joining. Make a template on your blocking mat with pins and block each square to match it.

Steam blocking is fast and works on many fibers, including acrylic.

1. 1.Pin the piece to shape.
2. 2.Hold a steam iron or steamer just above the fabric. Never press the iron onto crochet: it flattens the stitches permanently.
3. 3.Steam until the piece is evenly damp and warm.
4. 4.Let it cool and dry completely before unpinning.

About acrylic: acrylic won't respond much to wet blocking, but it reacts to heat. A little steam relaxes it nicely. Too much heat, or touching it with the iron, permanently softens it so it loses its bounce. Crocheters call this "killing" acrylic. Sometimes people do it on purpose to get extra drape in a shawl, but it can't be undone, so test on your swatch first.

Always defer to the yarn label. Some specialty yarns have their own care rules.

If you're making something that needs to fit, block your gauge swatch the same way you'll block the finished piece, then measure it. Yarn can relax and grow after blocking, sometimes by a noticeable amount, and that changes the stitches per inch.

Measure the blocked swatch and use the numbers in our gauge calculator to work out your cast-on and row count. Our complete gauge guide explains why this matters so much.